Giant Peloton schreef:
Kun je de complete oude freewheel body niet vervangen door een nieuwe, dat is mijn idee. De huidige cassette wordt met het laatste / kleinste tandwiel middels een schroefdraad op de freewheel body geborgd.
Voor de goede orde, het gaat me niet om het uitsparen van de kosten maar om de haalbaarheid.
Ik ga nu eerst de as demonteren:) en dan zie ik wel. Een nieuw wiel maken is een mooi projectje voor de komende donkere dagen of de kerstvakantie.
Aha, het is dus een Uniglide body (zie Sheldon Brown)
http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html
Die body kan vervangen worden , maar daar kan bij die naaf maximaal 7 speed op.
Beste optie : Wiel omspaken met een Tiagra achternaaf , dan kan er 8/9/10 speed op en heb je alles nieuw en geen oude , halfversleten meuk.
Edit:
Ook op Sheldon Browns site:
Upgrading From 6-/7-speed (126 mm) to 8-/9-speed (130 mm)
A frequent reason for body transplantation is to convert a 6- or 7-speed Freehub to use 8-/9-/10-speed cassettes. This generally will increase the over-locknut dimension. As a result you will usually need to re-dish the wheel after doing this upgrade.
6- and 7-speed hubs generally use 126 mm spacing, while 8-/9-speed hubs use 130 mm (road) or 135 mm (MTB/Hybrid).
Some folks will tell you that you also need to install a longer axle when doing this, but that's not correct. Typical rear QR axles are 11 mm longer than the over-locknut dimension of the hub, so there's 5.5 mm of axle sticking out past the locknuts. That's way more than is actually needed. If you are converting a 126 mm OLD 7-speed Freehub (137 mm axle length) to 8 or more speeds, the OLD goes to 130 mm. That will leave you 3.5 mm of protrusion on each side, once you move the right cone over to even things out. That's plenty.
In fact, no protrusion is truly necessary, but it's a convenience in wheel installation to have some protrusion. I once set up a bike with zero protrusion, where the axle was flush with the locknuts. (This was a fixed-gear with vertical dropouts, and I did it to give me a bit more chain tension adjustability.) I put a lot of hard miles on that bike; it never gave me a lick of trouble.
If you do re-space your hub, you'll also need to re-dish your wheel, because the extra space will all be added on the right side by installing the wider Freehub body. You'll need to tighten spokes on the right, possibly also loosen some on the left, to move the rim 2 mm to the right so that it will once again be centered in the frame.
In going to a wider hub spacing, you'll also need to deal with the frame spacing, but this is not as difficult as you might suppose. For details on this, see my article on Frame Spacing.
Het is dus mogelijk, maar wel een hoop gedoe......wieltje omspaken is sneller, goedkoper en beter.