weer iemand aan wat dit kan liggen :
ik zet mijn zipp achterwiel in het frame en doe de snelsluiter dicht ;
het wiel kan dan niet meer achteruit !!!! Het zit vast ! Ook de casstte kan niet meer achteruit, . Vooruit is er geen probleem, dat gaat prima.
De pat van het frame drukt op de sluitring van de cassette ; ik heb de indruk, het kan bijna niet anders ,
dat de as naar links ( enkele mm ) is opgeschoven.
Kan dit of is er een andere oorzaak en is dit zelf makkelijk te herstellen ?
Bedankt allesinds,
probleem met Zipp 404 wiel.
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marcopantani
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- Lid geworden op: 17 nov 2006 23:21
Heel vreemd... Misschien een foto van het geheel of is het al opgelost? Opbouw van as is hetzelfde als ieder ander type of merk wiel, dus moet altijd passen.
Dat de pad tegen de sluitring komt, klopt zowiezo niet. Heel vreemd!
Hoor het anders nog.
Gr. Toon
Dat de pad tegen de sluitring komt, klopt zowiezo niet. Heel vreemd!
Hoor het anders nog.
Gr. Toon
S-Works Tarmac Sram E-tap Mavic Pro Carbon slc
Teveel spacers achter de cassette waardoor deze te veel naar buiten staat?
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marcopantani
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- Lid geworden op: 17 nov 2006 23:21
bergg schreef:Teveel spacers achter de cassette waardoor deze te veel naar buiten staat?
Geen spacers !
Maar nu heb ik gehoord dat ZIPP ervan op de hoogte is van dit probleem ;
ze zouden het beschrijven op hun site . Als ik een tolk gevonden hebt hoop ik
het erop te kunnen terug vinden ; er zou ergens een 2 de dichttingsring moeten
geplaatst worden achter de body.
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marcopantani
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- Lid geworden op: 17 nov 2006 23:21
Voilà si :
dit is de oplossing ; Bedankt TS-BIKER
Campy 11 Technical Bulletin
Model Year 2005 – 2008 year Zipp Wheels with 82/182 or 108/208 hubs, as well as Campagnolo compatible disc wheels with blue freehub bodies, can be adapted to fit Campagnolo 11-speed drivetrains.
To retro fit your hub, please contact your Zipp Dealer and ask them to order a .25mm spacer (Zipp part number 11.2100.060.000). Please place this between the freehub body and hub body bearing. Your hub should already have 1 spacer in it. You will need a total of 2 as in the picture below. Instructions for assembly/disassembly of the 82/182, 108/208, and Disc hubs are below.
Hub Disassembly:
To disassemble the rear hub, insert a 5mm Allen key in each end of the axle, and turn opposite each other (standard right-hand threads).
Unthread and remove the left-hand end cap.
Slide the freehub body and axle out of the main hub shell.
Be sure NOT to lose the .25mm washer that fits between the freehub body and hub shell! You need this as well as the second one in order to use Campy 11.
Hub Reassembly:
Insert the axle/cassette body assembly into the hub shell,
Make sure that both of the .25mm washers are between the freehubbody and hub body.
Push the three pawls down with your fingers and rotate the cassettebody counterclockwise as it is inserted.
Thread on the end cap, being sure not to cross thread it. Insert a 5mm Allen key into the drive side (right), and a torque wrench with a 5mm bit into the non-drive side (left).
Hub assembly torque is 88 lb.*in. for the rear hub.
If you don’t have a torque wrench on hand, use a standard 5mm key and torque until the tool leaves a slight impression in your hand. If the hex key begins to twist in the endcap or strip the broach, you are using way too much torque!
dit is de oplossing ; Bedankt TS-BIKER
Campy 11 Technical Bulletin
Model Year 2005 – 2008 year Zipp Wheels with 82/182 or 108/208 hubs, as well as Campagnolo compatible disc wheels with blue freehub bodies, can be adapted to fit Campagnolo 11-speed drivetrains.
To retro fit your hub, please contact your Zipp Dealer and ask them to order a .25mm spacer (Zipp part number 11.2100.060.000). Please place this between the freehub body and hub body bearing. Your hub should already have 1 spacer in it. You will need a total of 2 as in the picture below. Instructions for assembly/disassembly of the 82/182, 108/208, and Disc hubs are below.
Hub Disassembly:
To disassemble the rear hub, insert a 5mm Allen key in each end of the axle, and turn opposite each other (standard right-hand threads).
Unthread and remove the left-hand end cap.
Slide the freehub body and axle out of the main hub shell.
Be sure NOT to lose the .25mm washer that fits between the freehub body and hub shell! You need this as well as the second one in order to use Campy 11.
Hub Reassembly:
Insert the axle/cassette body assembly into the hub shell,
Make sure that both of the .25mm washers are between the freehubbody and hub body.
Push the three pawls down with your fingers and rotate the cassettebody counterclockwise as it is inserted.
Thread on the end cap, being sure not to cross thread it. Insert a 5mm Allen key into the drive side (right), and a torque wrench with a 5mm bit into the non-drive side (left).
Hub assembly torque is 88 lb.*in. for the rear hub.
If you don’t have a torque wrench on hand, use a standard 5mm key and torque until the tool leaves a slight impression in your hand. If the hex key begins to twist in the endcap or strip the broach, you are using way too much torque!
Volgens mij is dit alleen wanneer de cassette de spaken gaat raken... De cassette gaat nu door de ringen iets opgeschoven worden van de spaken vandaan, maar heeft dit iets met het probleem sluitring/pad te doen? Heeft alleen met de vrijloop te maken denk ik?
S-Works Tarmac Sram E-tap Mavic Pro Carbon slc